This year at Milan Fashion Week, everyone was on their toes: animal rights activists have targeted brands that have not yet given up fur, hoping to convince Italian brands Max Mara and Fendi in particular, AFP reported.
An activist from the animal rights group PETA walked the Fendi catwalk holding a placard reading "Animals are NOT clothes". A coalition of animal welfare groups has stepped up its campaign against Max Mara.
Over 1,500 clothing brands, including some of the most prestigious, have ditched fur in recent years, but others are fighting back.
A hot air balloon with the words "Max Mara Go Fur-Free" flew over the company's headquarters in Emilia-Romagna.
This operation is supported by the Alliance for Free Skin - a coalition of more than 50 animal protection associations, among them the International Humane Society and the Italian anti-vivisection league LAV - which has targeted Max Mara since the beginning of the month.
The campaign, which includes demonstrations, social media posts, phone calls and emails, coincides with fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris, which run until March 5.
Unlike Fendi, which began as a leather goods brand, Max Mara is best known for its luxurious wool and camel leather coats, sometimes using fur to decorate hoods and cuffs.
The brand can do without leather, said Simone Pavesi of LAV. "It's really a problem of complete indifference, they could solve it from one season to the next," he said, regretting that the company refused to discuss with the associations.
At Fendi, Elke Orth, a 21-year-old fashion student, believes that big brands that still use leather have a significant influence, even if young people's attitudes have changed.
"They have a lot of power because everyone wants to be a part of that world. But if a famous actor or singer said, 'I'm not going to this fashion show,' that would mean a lot," she says.
Among the fashion houses that have ditched fur are Gucci, Versace, Armani, Prada, Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana.
In France, the main manufacturers are Louis Vuitton and Hermès.
Campaigners cite the cruelty inherent in fur farming, where foxes, mink, chinchillas, rabbits and raccoons are crammed into cages with batteries, then gassed or electrocuted.
Undercover operations revealed deplorable conditions on these farms, with sick and stressed animals, as well as self-harm and infections.
The industry claims to be environmentally friendly, but anti-fur campaigners deny this, arguing that the carbon footprint of fur farms is greater than that of synthetic fur production.
Although 17 EU countries passed a full or partial ban on fur farming in December, and others are preparing to do so, there is no ban on the sale of fur, as is already in place in Israel, the state of California and some US cities.
However, the European Commission has until March 2026 to decide on a possible ban on fur farming and sales. It may also decide to adopt "appropriate rules" to respect the welfare of animals.
According to LAV, Max Mara has blocked hostile comments on her Instagram account. "We are not interested in a pressure campaign. We prefer to talk to the company, explain our reasons, and convince them to stop using leather," says Simone Pavesi. /BGNES