Although it has officially started, as is customary with NYFW, New York Fashion Week has already begun. Last night, Ralph Lauren hosted an off-season spectacular with a star-studded runway at Bridgehampton's Khalily Stables, drawing spectators to the Hamptons. It was a logistical headache, as well, with people traveling five hours to get there from Manhattan, which caused the show to be delayed in typical NYFW fashion. Hopefully, it's not a sign for the remainder of the week.
Ralph Lauren brings a lot of celebrity power to NYFW, but the brand is one of the mainstays that has been difficult to manage for several seasons. Like Thom Browne, the chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), who did not appear this season, Ralph now comes and goes. Additionally, Proenza Schouler preempted the calendar on September 4th with a brief performance, reported Vogue.
With 98 designers scheduled for this season, there is no lack of talent in New York, including major debuts like Presley Oldham, foreign guests like Alaïa, and the ever-presents that have kept momentum going like Khaite. Additionally, new anchors bookend this season are: This season, Area is celebrating its tenth anniversary, and on Friday at 1pm, a runway show will kick off the formal schedule. At 5 p.m. on Wednesday, September 11, 2023, Melitta Baumeister, the recipient of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, will make her runway debut. In between, every day is jam-packed with catwalks and presentations.
This year's NYFW serves as a constant reminder of how difficult it is for designers to establish themselves and continue their careers. Some will not be shown this season: Interior closed its label in August ahead of the season, citing industry uncertainty; Altuzarra and Helmut Lang are not scheduled to appear.
Come NYFW, that volatility is always up for discussion. Just in time for this season's fashion shows, the Partnership for New York City released a new research on Wednesday that analyzes the city's fashion business and notes that New York Fashion Week has "become less prominent" as fewer designers and graduates of fashion schools choose to stay in the city. According to the research, it needs to be revitalized with "more promotion and showcasing more emerging designers."
Nevertheless, there are positive vibes and a lot of energy for this next week. Julie Gilhart, president and founder of Gilhart & Co., a consultancy, and a former fashion director at Barneys, says she has noticed a change this season. "September is anticipated to be a significant month. It's a wonderful time to visit New York," she remarks.