In Monofeya, one of Egypt's poorest provinces, "sustainable fashion" is a concept that probably means very little to the vast majority of the 4.7 million or so residents. However, in this area, where 26% of people live in poverty, a single company recycled almost 940 tons (850 metric tons) of cloth in just five years.
The co-founder of Green Fashion, Amgad Moustafa, says, "We were interested in creative manufacturing and environmental solutions after noticing the amount of textile waste." Green Fashion is a brand that has brought together about 200 women to give piles of fabrics and textiles new life that would otherwise be burned or disposed of in landfills. The company, which was founded in 2018, sources its raw materials from 50 textile mills' excess fabric and garbage.
According to a UN research, Egypt's vast clothing sector, which generates 4% of the nation's GDP, generates almost 234,000 tons (212,000 metric tons) of textile waste annually, The Good Men Project reported.
Furthermore, the global fashion business has a huge negative impact on the environment.
According to the UN, 10,000 liters (2,600 gallons) of water are needed to grow cotton for a single pair of pants, which is enough water to sustain one person for ten years. Additionally, according to recent McKinsey research, the industry contributes 3–10% of greenhouse gas emissions, accounts for 20–35% of microplastic flows into the ocean in recent years, and its solvents and dyes contribute to 25% of industrial water pollution. Fast fashion has been dubbed "an environmental emergency" by the UN.
With the introduction of rapid fashion and mass production, things changed. But repurposing and reusing again are becoming more popular these days as the economy falters.
The most populous nation in the Arab world, Egypt, has experienced economic distress in recent years, prompting shoppers to look for less expensive options to ready-made clothing with international brands. This increased demand for upcycled and recycled apparel, which in turn is decreasing fabric waste, generating employment possibilities, and inspiring creativity as people and organizations figure out new uses for old clothes and materials.
Silver Lining
According to sustainability and environmental development consultant Esraa Aburehab, "the idea of sustainability existed in all Egyptian social levels." "After all, who didn't wear the clothing of their elderly relatives while certain pieces were passed down among family members?"
With the introduction of rapid fashion and mass production, things changed. But repurposing and reusing again are becoming more popular these days as the economy falters.
Egypt's inflation rates have skyrocketed as a result of waves of currency devaluations since 2016, which have been exacerbated by economic disruptions brought on by the conflict in Ukraine. Rates reached a record high of 36.8% in June 2023. The Egyptian pound was listed as one of the world's currencies with the worst performance in April of that same year.
Advocates for sustainable fashion claim that Egyptians have always reused or repurposed their clothing.
This economic collapse has affected people in all social classes. Clothes is one of the numerous commodities and services that have been touched by the millions of people who have been forced into poverty.
From the coastal city of Suez, 140 kilometers (87 miles) northeast of the capital, Rahma Youssef, a teacher, recalls, "We used to travel to Cairo several times a year just to visit the malls and buy new clothes." Then, the cost skyrocketed. What used to get us two or three pieces now only covers one item," she continues, describing how she and her sister now shop at charity stores, get clothing manufactured to order (which is frequently less expensive than name brands), and fix and restyle existing items.
The demand for less expensive apparel, according to Basma Tawakol, founder of the online secondhand retailer Dayra, created the opportunity for sustainable fashion. People looked for alternatives to the intentional price increases after the devaluations, according to Tawakol. "I expected to serve middle-class and lower-class clients, but I also had some upper-class clients come back."
By combining various textiles and used clothing, Dayra has been releasing an upcycled collection of roughly 12 pieces every few months since its inception in 2020.
In the meantime, Green Fashion uses unwanted used clothing as well as defective fabric rolls that cost no more than 25% of the intact rolls to create their mass-produced recycled clothing. According to Moustafa, "we once produced a thousand pieces from fabric waste and defective bolts." "Typically, we make one new item for every four preowned garments."
Acquiring Skills and Knowledge
In addition to repurposing materials, green fashion develops skills. The company provides six months of training to new tailors, with two months dedicated to sewing and another two to recycling. According to Moustafa, tailors must first operate under supervision after completing their training before being permitted to work alone.
Only women are employed by Green Fashion. Therefore, by empowering women who would not have had any or very little money, training them, and providing them with a respectable profession, it "helps the local community, achieving a social impact alongside its environmental goals," according to Moustafa.
"One person at a time, we'll spread the concept of sustainability." —Amgad Moustafa
Mother of four Sohair Asfour was a full-time homemaker until her husband lost his job in 2018, leaving the family short on cash.
Asfour explains, "I studied sewing and embroidery at Green Fashion, and right now I'm assisting our trainers in instructing the newcomers." "My job improved my quality of life and altered the way I thought about antiques."
According to Youssre Abdelkader, co-founder of the sustainable design initiative From Waste to Good Taste, students of all ages attend their courses, which started in 2021 and teach upcycling and mending techniques like patchwork. At initially, students and recent graduates made up the majority of those attending our workshop. People in their 40s and 50s are now joining in, she says, since the age group has grown with time.
Green Fashion just started offering training in Gharbia and Aswan, two more disadvantaged governorates in Egypt. By the end of 2024, 1,000 metric tons (1,100 tons) of waste are to be recycled, and 300 more women are to be employed in these new industrial units, according to Moustafa. Furthermore, Green Fashion intends to introduce a fabric donation vehicle in Egypt's universities and rural areas.
"One person at a time, we'll spread the concept of sustainability," declares Moustafa. /BGNES