The biggest trends in fashion today are ones no one wants to be seen in. They include vastly increased clothing production and declining use, massive levels of waste and more greenhouse gas emissions than international shipping and flights combined.
In the last 15 years the industry has doubled production, while the time clothing is worn before it is thrown away has fallen by around 40%. When it is thrown away, 73% will be burned or buried in landfill. What does get collected for recycling – around 12% – will likely end up being shredded and used to stuff mattresses, or made into insulation or cleaning cloths. Less than 1% of what is collected will be used to make new clothing, WEF reported.
These trends are not only damaging the environment, they are limiting the opportunities for the fashion industry to succeed in the long-term. The industry already misses out on $560 billion in value from clothing being worn less and barely recycled.
As well as this stark economic reality, fashion is facing increased scrutiny from policymakers. In the UK last month, for example, members of parliament recommended the introduction of extended producer responsibility on clothing, effectively taxing brands to help meet the costs of dealing with clothing when customers have finished with it. Customers themselves are increasingly calling for change. Just as they did with fur and workers’ rights in clothing factories, they are demanding companies look seriously at issues like plastic microfibres, massive levels of waste, and greenhouse gases.
It has become clear that for the fashion industry to thrive in the future it needs a fundamental redesign. It has the opportunity to shift from the take-make-waste model that characterises it today by embracing circular economy principles. Such an approach would see business models increase the use of clothes, clothes made from safe and renewable materials, and old clothes used to make new ones.