Greetings from Milano! After much deliberation, Milan Fashion Week has finally acquired an extra day for Spring/Summer 2025. Fiorucci will open the show on Tuesday lunchtime, with major players Alberta Ferreti, Marni, and Fendi following. Industry sources anticipate a more laid-back season with more room for debut performances and young talent, reported Vogue.
Despite the absence of major players like Giorgio Armani, which has relocated to New York for a season, and Tom Ford, which will hold a presentation in lieu of a show following the departure of Peter Hawkings and in anticipation of new creative director Haider Ackermann's AW25 debut, the event, which boasts 57 shows and 69 presentations, features heavyweights Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Emporio Armani, and Versace. This season, DSquared2 has also shifted to a presentation format following its intense performance during the most recent men's week.
Contributor Giorgia Feroldi to Vogue Italia states, "Being in Milan during fashion week always means having very little time to rest and process what you've seen, as it's always the most packed calendar out of the 'big four'." But compared to previous seasons, the atmosphere is a little more laid back because there aren't as many significant debuts planned and a day has been added to the calendar in quest of some respite. "Hopefully, this will help upcoming designers," she says.
The season of sophomores is here at Milan Fashion Week (MFW) SS25, following a run of debuts for AW24. After a well-received male show in June, Adrian Appiolaza of Moschino will first display his second womenswear collection for the business. Since this is Appiolaza's first complete women's presentation for Moschino, the collection is significant. (For AW24, he didn't have complete creative control over the collection because he was just appointed a few weeks before the show, after former creative director Davide Renne passed away.)
Matteo Tamburini's second act at Tod's follows a well-received first collection. Feroldi adds, "After an intriguing start last season, I'm curious to see what Tamburini's Tod's is going for in his second attempt to revisit the heritage of the brand."
After a great performance last season, Feroldi and Tiziana Cardini, a contributor to Vogue Runway, are also looking forward to Simone Bellotti's third collection for Bally. Feroldi states, "I am most looking forward to learning about his designs at any Milan Fashion Week appointment. His designs definitely won my heart." It’s Bellotti’s first show since Bally was acquired by US-based investment group Regent in August. Simone is dependable, but he also has a dark side that adds interest to his work, according to Cardini.
Emerging stars Marco Rambaldi and Del Core, who both show on Wednesday, as well as Andreādamo, who shows on Sunday, are much anticipated by Italian editors. After going solo in 2021, Daniel Del Core—who got his start dressing VIPs at Gucci—has amassed a solid celebrity network that includes Florence Welch and Lupita Nyong'o.
Brigitte Chartrand, VP of womenswear buying at Ssense, states, "One of my favorite runway shows in Milan is always Bottega Veneta." "Matthieu [Blazy] has established a clear direction for the brand, and I'm eager to follow his lead for the SS25 collection." She continues, "Among Ssense customers' favorites are MM6 and Diesel." "I'm excited to see what both of those brands have in store as well."